If you are looking for a place to unwind over the weekend, or get away from it all for a week or so, then Dumaguete City is your cup of tea.
Dumaguete, like a charming woman, is captivating from the inside out. It’s difficult to put a finger on why it is so alluring. It cannot boast of high-rises or expensive boutiques, but its naked simplicity and beauty can permeate the soul of a visitor.
It is small (33.62 km²) compared to Cebu or Bacolod, 167 and 315, respectively, and does not have an industrial base like those of the two cities, but is older than both (it was founded May 1, 1901).
And perhaps because of that, it is wiser – as proven by the many antique, albeit well-preserved buildings right in the heart of the city. And it is cleaner and more civilized. LOL!
Dumaguete prides itself of being the City of Gentle People. And for a good reason. Compared to that of Cebu’s crime rate, Dumaguete is a children’s playground. This is evident by taking a stroll along the Rizal Boulevard – Dumaguete’s showcase to the world – at night.
I’ve been to Dumaguete thrice. The first time was a breeze through on our way to Siquijor. The next was more memorable because, together with my daughter and her hubby, we stayed overnight at enchanting Forest Camp Resort in Valencia.
This time around will last forever in my memory because it was with family. Aside from my daughter and her hubby, my younger sister, two nephews, and their families also came. In a sense, it was a family affair that made a swing through two neighboring towns of Dumaguete (see map) – a three-car convoy of fun and camaraderie.
Sibulan
Sibulan is our debarkation point in Negros Oriental, after a 30-min ferry ride from Cebu. Soon as we hit land, we went right to our first destination for the day – The Twin Lakes of Balinsasayao and Danao.
The two, declared a protected area in 2000, are crater lakes 875 meters up the slopes of Mt. Talinis. Lake Balinsasayao is the larger of the two at 76 hectares, 90 meters deep.
Lake Danao is smaller at 30 hectares, 58 meters deep. A thin strip of forested land separates it from her bigger sister, and a short boat ride over placid lake-waters is necessary to get there.
Once on the other side – the ordeal begins. To see Lake Danao in its unspoiled beauty, you need to climb a series of stone steps to get to the viewing tower. It took every ounce of my osteoarthritis-ravaged knees to scale it all the way to the top. But it was worth it.
The view is so stunning to make a photo op irresistible.
We were so enraptured by the tranquility and beauty of the place, and leaving it is like leaving a life-long friend. But we have to after almost an hour of filling our senses with its magnificence.
The experience gave us the much-needed respite from big-city life, but exhausted us all over – and hungry.
To ease both, on the way back we dropped by Jo’s Chicken Inato for a much-needed rest and lunch.
Jo’s Chicken Inato
When our muscles were rested and stomachs filled, we rolled for the next stop.
Dauin
Dauin is a fourth class municipality 19 kms southwest of Dumaguete. But don’t be fooled by its low-key stature. The town hosts several hotels and resorts for travelers looking for a nice and relaxing place to unwind. And its proximity to the world-famous Apo Island, make it a haven for scuba divers.
It is also where we were booked for the night – at the Sea Dream Resorts.
Sea Dream exemplifies the saying, “small is beautiful.” It is clean, peaceful and quiet; the staff is efficient and courteous.
It has 24 rooms of various accommodations, but what rooms! They are large, well-appointed and with enough pillows to make a pregnant woman sleep comfortably.
At the back is a swimming pool long enough for lap swimming, which I did early the following morning. And the lawn is perfect for bonding.
Breakfast, however, is not included in the accommodation. But with nowhere to go early in the morning, you have no option but to take it in-house – which is not bad, anyway.
Dumaguete highlights
A visit to Dumaguete is not complete without having had a stroll along Rizal Boulevard at night. It is a sight to behold and experience. And that we did – the best for last, kind of thing.
Rizal Boulevard, named after the country’s National Hero, is 780 meters long and was built in 1916. That was foresight of gigantic proportions because Dumaguete would not be complete without it.
It is the centerpiece of the city. Looking seaward is an unobstructed view of the Tañon Strait while a long line of restaurants, coffees shops, bars, entertainment gigs line its entire landward length.
It bristles with people at night, either to dine, chill out with friends or just take leisurely walks along its clean promenade.
We were there for all three. But first, we dined at Hayahay Seafood Restaurant.
Hayahay serves a delicious menu of native dishes like this bowl of steamy clam soup.
Coffee after a heavy meal may affect your body’s capacity to absorb the food you ate. But it’s ok to take it in moderation – especially if taken with sweets baked by the famous Sans Rival.
Before we headed back to the hotel, we made a final stop – an open-air, table-and-chair setup that sells native tempura. I was too full to take anything but a perfect shot of the Silliman Hall thrusting into the darkness – as the university has been thrusting into the darkness of ignorance since 1901.
All our bags are packed
“All good things must come to an end,” Geoffrey Chaucer.
It did the following day for us. After a hearty brunch, we started finding ourselves back home with the plan of having lunch in Oslob, Cebu. Which we did – sans the whale sharks.
Please share this travelogue of a senior.
~oOo~
